Catching Up With Friends in Nicosia

Today, Andrew and I went to the Museum to see the exhibit celebrating the 80th anniversary of the Swedish Cyprus Expedition. I took him for lunch at Demos and then went there again to see my friends: I had dinner with Angelos, Niki, and Red Check (photo). I'll post some pictures on my blog over the weekend. The next day, I returned to Jerusalem. The photos show Demos Taverna, Me and Demos.

Nicosia: The Mother Hash

I arrived in Cyprus two days ago for a short working break, to renew my tourist visa, and catch up with friends. I’m staying at the Cyprus American Archaeological Research Institute, where I spent nearly a year when I had my Fulbright. Since my favorite taverna is closed on Sunday’s, I went up the street to TGI Fridays and had Nachos with American style chedder (yellow, not white like in Oz) and a margarita. Funny to go to Cyprus for American food.

On Monday I enjoyed a mystery novel and a cappuccino at the Starbucks on Ledra St, walked around the old city and took photos, then went to my favorite Taverna, the St George, owned by our friend Demos. We ate there nearly every night and I picked olives at his farm in Zygi 7 years ago.

On Tuesday, I did some work in the library and bought books at Moufflon. I also went to run with our mother hash - the Nicosia Horrible Hash House Harriers. The turnout for the Hash was small, but I still enjoyed it. Heidi and Paul who threw that big party at Abu Faisel last year on New Years have moved to Perth, so maybe we will see them at the Interhash. Afterward, I met up with Andrew McCarthy, who co-chairs my ASOR session. It was nice to hear more about what he does outside of the hectic atmosphere of the ASOR meeting

The Albright, the Fulbright, and the Not-So-Bright

Last Saturday's Shwarma fest marked the end of this year's academic program at the Albright Institute, the first member of the American Schools of Oriental Research consortium. The end of the year is also marked by photographing the all of the fellows for the Albright Institute Newsletter. Here I'm featured with the prominent Biblical scholar Anson Rainey who was the Annual Professor prior to my arrival and with the Barton Fellow, Matthew Suriano - we asked to be photographed together as he is a current UCLA student and I'm a past one. Matt is also giving a paper in my ASOR session this year!

Tel es-Safi/Gath Day 5

Today was the final day of the pre-season at Tel es-Safi and we're all pretty happy cause we helped get Jeff's trench (you can see during and after shots) all nice and clean for the season in July. Our group photo shows Itzak, me, Rotem, Jeff (the Area F supervisor), and Julie. That evening we went to a bar b q at Deb's house for some great steaks - cooked on an Aussie bar b q!

Lachish, Beth Shemesh, and Duncan MacKenzie

On Wednesday, I took a break from the week of digging to go on the last Albright field trip to the sites of Lachish and Beth Shemesh. Most people are interested in Lachish because of a preserved Assyrian siege ramp on the other side of the Tel, but my interest is in the Canaanite temples, which have been dismantled since the time of their excavation. One photo shows our group ascending toward the Iron Age gate. There wasn't much to see at Beth Shemesh, but this trench around the fortification wall was excavated by Duncan MacKenzie who worked with Evans at Knossos on Crete, and that makes it historically interesting.

Tel es-Safi/Gath Day 3

One photo shows Julie, Rotem, and the view at the start of our day. The other photo shows a Palestinian boy with his two pet hawks. I won't be digging tomorrow because there is a fellows trip to Lachish and Beth Shemesh. I'll be back at Safi for the final day on Thurs before the regular season. Taking down the baulks will make room for the hordes of volunteers that will be joining us at the site (including 2 of my students!) in July.

Tel es-Safi/Gath Day 2

This photo is during a break in the work. Julie on the right and Deb on the left are both members of the staff at Tel es Safi. Deb is also giving a paper in my session at the American Schools of Oriental Research meeting this November in San Diego. We continued taking down the baulks after removing a stone feature.

Pre-Season at Tel es-Safi/Gath Day 1

I’ve finished 18 of 29 chapters of the book I’m working on and this week I’m taking a little break. For 5 days this week, I’m participating in a 5 day, pre-season excavation at Tel es-Safi-Gath led by the director, Prof. Aren Maeir of Bar Ilan, members of his team, and Jeff Chadwick of BYU. Today was my first day digging and we had a great time! We are working in Jeff’s area, Area F at the top of the tel. In the foreground of this photo from my earlier visit to the site, is a pierced stone used as part of a bone tool workshop from the early Iron Age and behind it is a rounded tower from the Crusader Period. I woke up with a sore throat this morning and was worried that I would end up wimping out, but the day just seemed to fly by. We are cleaning this area and taking down a couple of the baulks between excavation units in preparation for the July excavation season. The top photo shows us at the beginning and all of those piles of sandbags were taken down. I’ve got two students coming here and I think they’re going to have a great time!

For We Are Jolly Good Fellows!

I had a low key birthday celebration a today - aka Drinko de Mayo. I spent most of the day working and am halfway through my book. My husband surprised me by sending a dozen roses (while pretending to forget it was my birthday) and after dinner, a bunch of us (Matt, Karen, Yours Truly, Anne, Ed [and Ben taking the photo!] went to the American Colony Hotel - a very old hotel where a lot of embassy and media types go - and had cosmopolitans.

Samaritan Passover: The Silence of the Lambs

Today we went to Mt. Gerizim in the region of Samaria, in the west bank, in the north, to view the Samaritan Passover. While graphic, I have chosen not to post the most graphic photos. The Samaritans are a sect claiming descent from the northern kingdom of Israel, and carry out a ritual sacrifice of sheep that follows ancient traditions. At 3 pm there is a fire lighting ceremoney in 5, deep, plaster lined pits and these fires are kept burning for about 5 hours in advance of the cooking. Each pit is lit separately with chanting. About an hour before the sacrifice there is more chanting and prayer. The chanting is rhythmic and becomes more intense leading up to the sacrifice. The sacrifice involves the killing of about 30 sheep. They drain the blood into a channel, prepare the sheep, then cook the offal and skins separately as a sacrifice, then cook the whole sheep on a spit, with 5-6 sheep in a fire pit. It was one of the most intense and amazing things I've ever witnessed. Hundreds of people watched in bleachers like the kind you see at a football game. I counted at least 15 tour buses in the village! Right after they made the first cut, a guy fainted about 4 rows behind me! I had to take off all my clothes when I got home to wash and take a shower to get the smell of burning lamb out of my hair. We couldn't eat any leavened bread or prepared food in front of the Samaritans because it goes against their beliefs. I had a big lunch before I left the Albright, and I didn't really feel like eating last night after what I saw and I didn't really feel like eating the next day! Although Australia has the best lamb I've ever tasted, I don't plan on eating any of it for a while. Although I enjoyed the experience, I did not really even want to look at my photos for a few days.

Tel Aviv Hash, Aussie Run 680: Yaqum, South of Netanya

The following description of the run, is an edited version of what the hares (Fer Fox Sake and Russian Bride) wrote:
Strewth Cobbers , how do you make the warm amber taste used for down downs better than an abo's jockstrap? Simple you add the greatest bonzer known food to it - even mothers milk does taste better with a savoury spread, made from an extract of brewers yeast, eaten on sandwiches and toast. or from a spoon in conjunction with the amber fluid.

So there we were standing around like shags on rock waiting for any more hashers to turn up , a motley bunch of four decided to run along with the hares, the hares gave the ducks guts and it was "on On" - what was real beaut woz that Goldo had to check it out more times than she has ever done because there were so few on the trail. Richo, Clair and Up the Duff Pausey also ran around looking chooks with no heads trying to find the start of the trail.

Eventually we went over the bridge next to the servo and thru the sand where all the whingers thought they were on a dead cert until the drongos realised that there were two trails but they did not chuck a spaz. At the next hold like a bunch of derros, the hashers took forever to find the trail and then again thru the sand we hit the cliffs where luckily and for a bloody change there were no poofters on the beach swinging their wedding tackle around ,

Setting off again down to the never never, we thought that the hashers would chuck a spaz, and with no seppo's on the run, the hashers were flat out like lizards drinking trying to find the trail. We eventaully got to the half way and introduced the all time international classic "C'mon on Aussie C'mon" complete with a Mexican wave.

The second half gave the option for the most daft short cut option, just run accross Hwy 2 or continue on. They continued on to right till we got to a tunnel under the road where some noggin had decided to drop a bondi cigar at the entrance in between setting the hash and running it.

Well Goldo and Up the Duff Pausey spat the dummy and decided to LONG CUT and run over the bridge ahead. What nongs. Then again tempting fate, we ran back down the side of the bloody Hwy

The servo could have been seen but the hares wanted to cheese off the pack a bit more so went to the back of beyond and woop woop before the on in.

Back at the circle the walkers waited and drank amber fluid as the pack ran in. Fer Fox Sake sharing a Sheila moment complained that with his shaved legs (done for sporting reasons to make him go faster) that he now has sympathy with the other sheilas that running thru scrub scratches your legs more when they a softer than a rug rats bum.

Now to continue the Anzac Spirit with each down down the hasher had to first lick a spoon of vegemite (think vegemite shooter) before doing the down down , and fair suck of the sav bottle not one wanker did not like the taste it made warm beer taste better

Achziv and Akko Trip

Today we went to the archaeological sites of Achziv and Acco in the north. Achziv is a largely unexcavated coastal site within view of the Lebanese border (waves) with 11th c. chamber tombs cut into the bedrock. Acco was an important Bronze Age through Crusader site, and is interesting to me because of a portable ship’s alter found there with ship graffiti on it like you see at Kition in Cyprus.

Die Zauberfloete: Mozart’s Da Vinci Code

Tonight I went to see the Mozart’s Opera, The Magic Flute, at the Palestinian National Theater. It was performed by a touring group from England, so of course it was in English, although one of the production people was with the music program at Melbourne Uni! The sets were minimal, which reminded me of the way the way the RSC performs.
I’ve always wanted to see the Magic Flute ever since I taught a course on Black Athena because Mozart was a mason and there are many coded references to Masonic philosophy, Egypt and Enlightenment in the opera. I thoroughly enjoyed it - especially at the price of 20 sheckels (about 5 dollars), which is less than a sandwich costs in Melbourne. Maybe Dan Brown will write his version!

Ani Lomedet Ivrit!

Which means: I study Hebrew. Yes, the symbols make more sense than this Nabatean rock art from the Wadi Rum. I can read street signs now and know about 100 words, which is about 90 more than I knew when I got here. However, some of the signs look a lot like Greek letters, but have different values. When I'm tired (like today) I start to read them that way and they don't make much sense. I swam almost a mile earlier today before Hebrew and Arabic. We pay for the Arabic lessons by the month and I'm dropping them after today, because it's too much and I need to finish the book I'm writing.

If There's Global Warming, Why Is It So Cold?

I was going to go to the hash in Tel Aviv today, but ended up not going because it was cold and rain was predicted. It has not really rained here, but I just decided I didn't want to be stuck there trying to get to the bus station in the rain, like 2 weeks ago, when I slipped and hurt my knee. There was supposed to be a Jerusalem hash today, but no one showed up for it. I think I'll give up on them. I ended up just going for a run on my own. I am soooo over being cold, although at least my room isn't unbearably cold anymore.

Tribulations

Some of the American Expats in Oz think things are difficult, but consider what happened to me yesterday. I always keep my laptop locked to something and 2 days ago my lock just fell apart. The Office Depot in Jerusalem does not carry computer locks and I had to visit 20 stores (both in Palestinian east Jerusalem and in Jewish west Jerusalem) before finding one in the Christian quarter of the Old City. Last night I had pretty much given up and ordered a Kensington lock on E-Bay. Even with the shipping it came out a dollar cheaper than what I paid in Jerusalem.

April 7, 2007: The 300

I went with my friend Dalit tonight to see the 300 - about the Spartans fighting the Persians at the Battle of Thermopylae. It was based on the Graphic novel by Frank Miller (Robocop & Sin City). The dialog and the movie was a little hokey in parts, (I don't think Leonidas ever had to fight an Orc!), but I still really enjoyed it. Dalit and I were among just a handful of females at the movie.
Earlier today I ran 5 miles and went with 2 of the other fellows into the Old City and we had lunch at the Austrian Hospice. I bought some Nike socks there - just 15 sheckels for 3 pairs - about the cost of 1 pair in Australia.

Completing Our Pilgrimage

Part of the pilgrimage experience is to record the completion of the successful pilgrimage, which is what we’ve done here. Being a pilgrim works up a powerful appetite, so we went to Abu Shukri for hommous afterward!

Ascending the Via Dolorosa

The more serious pilgrims slowly make their way up the Via Dolorosa or way of sorrows toward the final stations in the church of the Holy Sepulcher.

Jesus is Korean!

Starting off a bit later, and behind the pilgrims was this group, made up of visitors from California (of course) and Korea, who re-enacted Jesus' last hours. Instead of the corn-fed Midwestern type that dressed as Jesus when I was here 6 years ago, a Korean pilgrim played the role of Jesus, wearing a wig, splattered with fake blood, wearing a crown of thorns and burdened by a cross. He was escorted by other pilgrims dressed as Roman centurions, including the same skinny old guy I remembered from 6 years ago, yelling, “come on, Jesus”. There were also some Korean interpretive dancers wearing sparkly outfits befitting the guest alien of the week on Star Trek and a woman with a mike I dubbed Kareoke Mary.